You Don't Need to Be an Expert
Most of my clients come to me with no background in jewellery. No technical knowledge, no strong opinions about diamond shapes or carat weights. Often, just a feeling.
That is more than enough.
Choosing an engagement ring is not about mastering gemology. It's about knowing the person who will wear it. Everything else can be guided.
This is how I'd walk you through it if you were sitting across from me.
Start With the Person, Not the Stone
Before thinking about diamonds or settings, think about the hand.
Does the person who will wear this ring prefer understated or expressive? Do they wear jewellery already, and if so, what kind? Are they drawn to clean, geometric shapes or something more organic and fluid?
You may not know the answers precisely. That's fine. Even a rough sense of direction is enough to start narrowing things down. And if you genuinely don't know, that's what the consultation is for.
How to Choose a Diamond Shape
The shape of the diamond is the single biggest visual decision. It sets the character of the entire ring.
A round brilliant is the most classic. Maximum sparkle, works in almost any setting, and never dates. If you're unsure, it is timeless and effortlessly versatile.
An oval has a similar brilliance to the round but feels more contemporary. It elongates the finger and has become one of the most requested shapes.
An emerald cut suits clients drawn to architecture, balance, and quiet confidence rather than maximum sparkle. It has a hall-of-mirrors depth that feels considered and calm.
A pear is graceful and slightly unconventional. It creates a sense of movement and can look very different depending on the setting.
A marquise creates movement and presence. It works beautifully in more sculptural compositions and appears larger for its carat weight than most other shapes.
An Asscher is the square cousin of the emerald cut. Art deco, vintage-feeling, with the same step-cut depth.
A cushion is soft and romantic, somewhere between a round and a square with rounded corners.
There is no best shape. There is only the right one for the person wearing it.
How to Choose an Engagement Ring Setting
The setting is how the diamond is held in the ring. It affects both how the stone looks and how the ring feels on the hand.
A solitaire places all the focus on a single stone. Clean, timeless, and the most versatile style.
A trilogy uses three stones, traditionally representing past, present, and future. It creates a wider presence on the finger.
A bezel wraps the diamond in a thin band of gold, protecting the stone while giving a modern, sleek profile.
A pavé band has small diamonds set along the band itself, adding sparkle around the centre stone.
A halo surrounds the centre stone with a ring of smaller diamonds, making it appear larger and adding detail.
If you're unsure, start with a solitaire. It is the most timeless choice and can always be paired later with a diamond wedding band for added detail.
Thinking About Everyday Wear
An engagement ring is worn every day. Lifestyle matters.
Someone who works with their hands may prefer a lower profile, a protective setting like a bezel, or a smoother silhouette that won't catch on anything. Someone who loves jewellery and enjoys presence may want more detail, height, or a more sculptural composition.
This is something I always discuss during the consultation. The right ring has to work with the life it's part of, not just look beautiful in a photograph.
Choosing Between Yellow, White, and Rose Gold
Every ring I make is in 18k gold. Yellow and white gold are standard options. Rose gold is available on request.
Yellow gold is warm and classic. It complements warmer skin tones and pairs beautifully with most diamond shapes.
White gold is cool and contemporary. It tends to make the diamond appear brighter because there is no contrast between the metal and the stone.
Rose gold sits between the two. It has a warmth that feels romantic and slightly vintage. If it appeals to you, get in touch and I'll let you know what's possible for your design.
Look at what jewellery the person already wears. If their watch, earrings, or everyday rings are in a particular metal colour, match it. If they mix metals, any option works.
Understanding Diamond Quality: The 4 Cs
Every diamond is graded on four criteria: cut, colour, clarity, and carat. I explain diamond quality in more detail in my guide to lab-grown and natural diamonds, but the short version is this: prioritise cut first.
A beautifully cut diamond will outshine a larger stone with a mediocre cut. I work with D to F colour, VVS and VS clarity, and exclusively Excellent or Very Good cut grades.
Read: Lab-Grown vs Natural Diamonds: What's the Difference? →
How to Find Ring Size Secretly
If you are planning a surprise proposal, sizing can feel like the hardest part. Here are two approaches that have actually worked for my clients.
The easiest: if the person already wears a ring on that finger, measure its internal diameter with a ruler in millimetres across the centre. Make sure it's the right finger. That gives you the size.
The accomplice: a trusted friend pretends they need to resize their own ring and asks your partner to come along to a jeweller to get measured together. It works more often than you'd think.
If you end up choosing between a slightly smaller or slightly larger size, go larger. It is easier to adjust, and if you are planning a proposal with photos, you want it to fit on the day.
One complimentary resize is included with every ring I make.
How Much Should You Spend?
I won't tell you what to spend. The old "rules" about months of salary are marketing, not reality.
What I will say is that working with lab-grown diamonds gives you more flexibility. A diamond that might have been out of reach as a natural stone is often possible as a lab-grown one, without any compromise in quality. The design doesn't have to bend around the budget. It often allows more freedom in stone proportions or sculptural details without changing the overall vision.
If you have a number in mind, share it during the consultation. I'll tell you honestly what's possible.
Bespoke vs Collection
You can choose a ring from the existing collection — every piece is made to order in your size and gold colour — or you can commission something entirely new.
The bespoke process begins with a conversation. There is no obligation. You tell me what matters to you, and I'll sketch ideas until we find the right one. From there, the ring takes six to eight weeks to make.
No prior knowledge of jewellery is needed. That is what I am here for.
Explore the engagement ring collection →
Discover the bespoke process →
What Happens Next
If you have read this far, you already know more than most people do when they start this process.
You do not need to arrive with answers. A feeling is enough. We can build the rest together.
